Day-8 : 04 July-205 : Pooh- Nako : My Cycling trip to Himalayas

Distace 40 Km
Distance covered by bicyle : 36 Km
Gradual Ascent till Nako through Ka zigs and another set of switchbacks.

I was very excited today as I have to climb the most alluring Ka zigs. I wanted to get down through other side of village but yesterday in my walk I saw many dogs, so I started back in the route I climbed.

After getting down, the beautiful downhill speed was stopped by pack of four dogs. They were too scary. I walked along with a soldier coming on that way, till I crossed them. Just as I crossed them, I heard a big sound and turned back to check it. A stone rolled down from a hill top, a big one! Few vehicles were stopped. I was surprised to see that they removed it very easily and went ahead. It gave me an insight about life in these places.

I also spotted few asses on the way :p . They were very different from the donkeys. The white lining around their eyes gave them a special beauty. Their sound make you run away though. 

At Khab bridge, I felt little scared and turned on music and went ahead. The good bad and the ugly theme playing in my phone gave the inspiration very much required for the Ka zig climb. I started climbing on a very slow pace. The heat added the challenge. I was very happy that I did that without much strain, apart from the heat. As I’ m climbing up I could clearly observe the size of vehicles becoming very tiny.

Khab Bridge
The Kazigs Begin

Refreshing sight in between

At Ka village, the winter settlement for Nako village, I had few momos and went ahead. Even here I faced little confusion about the route. At a place,the road splitted and downhill goes to villages in valley and uphill to nako. The downhill lured me, but I waited for a vehicle to pass, enquired them about route and started the climb:(. I have concluded that I should prepare myself for uphill if I face any situation further).

Ka Village
Views after Ka Village

I thought Nako will arrive after this, but another set of switchbacks showed up !! I wondered if Nako will ever show up ! I was climbing cursing and panting !After lot of desperation, a dhaba showed up 4/5 km’s ahead of Nako which gave me a big relief. A kilometer ahead, my bicycle was shaking and ride became very rough on a smooth tarmac. It’s a flat !!!!!! I had mixed feelings about this. I was sad as there is 4 km more climb and Happy because the flat I have fixed worked for 200 odd Kms .

Walking with a bicycle with flat tire carrying load is too tough and I was in no mood to fix a flat when Mr. Sun is barbecuing me. So I left the bicycle there and ran to the dhaba I saw before , as I saw a Mahindra Yut there. The onwer assured me that he will surely offer me a ride, but asked me to wait as he is making a business deal about apples. Even I wanted to listen that conversation, so I stayed there . Owner was explaining how they will grow apples organically, sizes they will offer, price variations etc.

Though I’m listening here all my attention is on the cycle I left few hundreds of meters ahead. Owner saw the tense in my face and assured in a very confident tone that no one will steal anything in whole valley and in case someone did, he will be caught within a day without any doubt. I was feeling safe after hearing those words but felt an insecurity feeling. I saw a couple of trucks passing in the route and felt that they hit my bicycle and it fell into the valley. For a second my heart stopped beating and I immediately ran with the speed of Ussain bolt. Bicycle is fine and it is just my imagination. Now I parked it carefully and came back again. Owner smiled at me and asked about the trip details. Another yut was passing and as owner juleyed* him and told about the flat, he offered me a lift till Nako. He didn’t accept money after dropping me ! Himalayan people _/\_ .

I have taken room immediately, washed few clothes and got ready to roam around. The green peas fields before my room with hill background is a feast for eyes. I was very happy I am getting rooms with beautiful views all the way.

View from my room

After lunch, I went to Monastery and the lake. There is a small climb over the green pea fields adjacent to lake, but I was tired and gave up on that idea. I didn’t find Nako lake much amusing. The green peas fields surprised me more. I wondered a whole village is just concentrating on single crop. 

Nako Lake

In monastery I was too enthusiastic to learn about Buddhism and culture, but the monk there is not comfortable even speaking Hindi, which gave me a huge disappointment. 

Some pictures of green peas fields

It was fun to walk in between houses of tiny village which resembles a maze. I enjoyed finding my way back to the road, after being lost in between narrow paths surrounded by mud and stone houses. There were Buddhist inscriptions everywhere. Even the stables for cattle were very artistic.

The winds picked up crazily while I’m coming back. Even hearing the person walking next became tough! I met Mahesh, a kind and friendly person .He operates tours in his Scorpio around Spiti valley. He noticed the flat in my tire and enquired about it. He was shocked to see the condition of my tires and pointed out that they were nearly worn out. Even, I didn’t notice that! After getting bicycle I rode over 1500 kms , and I hardly gave any attention to tire. I thought I will swap front and rear tires in Kaza and didn’t bother much.

He was shocked to learn about my rides in Bahli and Darangathi and told me that I was lucky to be safe as there is a lot of bear and leapord movement there! I was like, I didn’t see even one 😦 . While having conversation, I had salted tea. I didn’t feel like having it once again.

After conversation, I have fixed flat and this time used the spare tube instead of the old one. Mahesh helped me inflate it through electronic pump in his Scorpio. While fixing the flat, I spoke with another guy woring in UCO bank there. He told about his life and troubles there. I wished that I get that job and settle forever in Nako !

In dinner, I had something called Tungtuk ( not sure of name), which is a pasta soup. I didn’t like it too

Mahesh, in his Scorpio (Sharath and his wife are travelling in it) followed me for rest of trip till Losar. Their hello used to be a encouragement. After dinner had a peaceful sleep dreaming about the next day as I will be finally entering the enchanting and treacherous Spiti. The name itself has a magic in it !Ah spitiiiiiiii ❤


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